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Inside: Tuscany Valley

Giving Aurora restaurants some credibility (finally)

By Justin Jimenez

Metromix
May 20, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
4 1/2

Inside: Tuscany Valley
Photos:
Tuscany Valley Tuscany Valley Tuscany Valley Tuscany Valley

When you think of Aurora, one of the last things that probably pop into your head is a vision of rolling Tuscan hills, fine wine, and delicate Italian food. Hence, why Tuscany Valley, located in the trademark suburb, is initially a bit startling. I’ll readily admit, I spent some time living in Aurora during my younger years, and while I adore the massive sprawl harboring the advancement of Denver, I never had much respect for the cuisine (or the lack of tall trees if we are on the subject). Tuscany is a delightful surprise for Aurora eateries, a great restaurant for Denver, and a fine addition to the overall culinary circuit of Colorado. It’s about time the suburbs started to represent, outside of the police reports anyway.

Vibe: The exterior is aligned more with the stereotypical architecture associated with the Eastern part of the city (read: unattractive), but is in no way indicative of what happens on the interior. Using wine racks and contemporary Italian décor the entryway instantly warms things up and is continued throughout the space. The bar area is flanked by flat screens and is darkened down for some high-quality imbibing, and a pool table provides a smidgen of recreation.

Food: While the zip code might hinder the access to a wider client base, it also keeps the prices aligned with the neighborhood. It’s rare that you get a downtown restaurant with top shelf food, leave full, and with a check of less than $100. We gorged and held back none on the accoutrements and wine, yet we still couldn’t even hit $75. It’s nice to have everything in one place, not to mention the fact you don’t need to make a reservation a week in advance.

One of the most crucial decisions you will have to make relatively early in the process is: chicken or veal? Essentially it comes down to personal preference as neither route is a bad choice, but four of the top dishes, the Picatta, Marsala, Parmesan and Saltimbocca are all served both ways. If you’re unsure, the veal Marsala might be an easy out as the white wine butter sauce accented with garlic, mushrooms and basil easily satisfies any palate.

The restaurant pushes their beef quite a bit, and with all Black Angus cuts it makes the multitude of different steak options a delicious alternative, or any of the Angus burgers a solid bet for lunch. However, if you are looking for something a little more redolent of the creativity within the kitchen, go for the lamb shank-- a brilliant blend of flavors with herb crusted chops with a unique demiglaze-- not to mention a great supporting cast.  The accompanying California medley of vegetables move past a mere side dish as the cluster is a divine blend of fresh produce seasoned lightly yet deliberately, and the garlic mash potatoes pair brilliantly with the overflow of juices coming from the reduction. Tuscany only uses fresh locally grown products and frequents the local farmers markets to keep the crisp goodness well stocked.

Drinks: Their wine list is deep giving even more credibility to its Italian namesake, but again, the price makes it more accessible than comparable eateries as there is no bottle priced over $35. Each of the staff is fully capable of guiding you through the experience as well. We were fortunate enough to have general manager Zack Khalil wait on us and he made exquisite recommendations throughout.

The bar is also affluent in the art of mixology. The lovely bar manger Angela Sanders whipped us up some fine post dinner cocktails, handcrafted and fresh that ranged from an authentic margarita to a perfectly executed Kahula and cream. The patio also seems to turn into a decent party as well now that the weather permits, and the banquet room is available for those that decide to plan a little further ahead with their large groups.

Verdict: A high class dining experience disguised as a neighborhood joint. Tuscany has everything one would want from a quality restaurant and leaves the pretentiousness at the Denver city line. Finally, I can be proud to be from Aurora again.

Tuscany Valley
11951 E Illiff Ave
Aurora , CO 80014
303-755-7199

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