Inside: The Kitchen

Photos:

Choosing the name of a restaurant can be a delicate and perilous endeavor. Select something tricky to pronounce and people assume a certain level of costly pretentiousness. Opt for something only significant to insiders and people think high-brow entitlement. The perfect moniker is universal, conveys modesty and has the ability to arouse the appetite. One wonders if the folks behind The Kitchen went through an arduous naming process or simply decided to be as simple and forthright as possible in ordaining their Pearl Street eatery. Whether ironic or un-ironic, the appellative allows diners to focus on the output of The Kitchen’s kitchen.

Décor: Upstairs at The Kitchen is a sumptuous yet demure beer and wine lounge with bar and low-table seating and large plate glass windows, a nod to the Western setting but also providing a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and bustling downtown Boulder. Upon ascent, white walls are bathed in the romantic glow of dim lights and flickering candles and the lofty space seems far removed from the college atmosphere that permeates the town. The Moorish flavor of the food is compounded by dark wood tables, earthy tones and richly colored circular light shades making a meal at The Kitchen seem like a trans-Atlantic trip to North Africa or the Iberian Peninsula.

Food: The main courses upstairs are broken into two distinct categories defined by their mode of preparation. The “cazuelas” refer to the method of using traditional Spanish terra cotta cookware with dishes including Red Leaf Lettuce or Prosciutto & Monroe Farm Mellon salads and Crispy Chickpea Fritters or Gnocchi Alla Romana ($9-$13). Though there is a Wood Fired Pizza, The Kitchen has stepped beyond the ordinary and offers mussels, trout, burgers and a half chicken all from the kitchen’s prodigious wood oven ($15-$23). The mussels, served in a Fresno chili and thyme sauce with slices of chorizo, are a unique and delectable detour from the usual garlic or marinara route. Appetizers such as the vegetable antipasto and flatbread and hummus are plated on rectangular cutting boards perfect for passing around the table. And, since this is Boulder, whenever possible all ingredients are organic, natural, free-range and hail from local farmers and ranchers.

Drinks: With a selection of 750 wines, 50 beers and a staff well versed in the most appropriate food pairings, booze is certainly not a postlude at The Kitchen. From 5:30 to 6:30 every night of the week, both novices and connoisseurs can enjoy $5 glasses of the vin du jour and $2.50 pints of the beer du jour or take a wine flight with three pours for $9. There’s also a $26 three-course prix fixe menu or try the $35 version paired with wine.

Bottom line: In a college town, it would be easy to fall into a rut of pub grub and counter service. The Kitchen is the place to show off your refined taste on a date or take advantage of your parents' credit card on their semesterly visits.

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