Inside: Cherry Creek Grill

Mention Cherry Creek Grill to most locals, and you’ll get one of two reactions: Yum, love it. Or, ugh, too many rules.

Rules? In a restaurant? Like if you don’t follow the rules, you’ll get thrown in the clink?

Not quite, but you could find yourself out onto the street, like John Elway did when he “broke the rules” and dared to over-imbibe at the Grill. Or, if you’re a guy wearing a hat, you’ll be asked to take it off, because that’s one of the rules, too. (No hats on men, unless it’s something like a yamaka. Hats are okay for women, however.)

Some of the rules are logical, such as no parties get seated unless everyone is present. (Once, we had to wait until the hostess saw the whites of the last person to show in our party, even though we had pleaded that we just saw him and he was parking his car.) Others seem mean, like you must order entrees on the patio, meaning you can’t just drink and split some hors d’oeuvres out there.

Then there are the more difficult-to-comprehend rules, such as they take dinner reservations only, not lunch, and only for parties of four or less. (Wouldn’t you think it better to take reservations for four or more?) And don’t even get me started about the rules as to what liquors are served: some premium vodkas, but not others, and the choices seem whimsical. (They say it has to do with space considerations, but it probably has more to do with which liquor reps the company is happy with that week…)

However, none of “the rules” seem to fend off any of the Grill’s adoring fans because the place is nearly always packed — and they can’t all be first timers who’ve never heard about any rules!

Cherry Creek Grill is part of the Hillstone Restaurant Group out of Los Angeles, which also owns the chain of Houston’s restaurants, as well as Bandera, Gulfstream and Palm Beach Grill. (In fact, CCG used to be called Bandera, until it got re-named as Cherry Creek Grill…don’t ask.)

You can often spot the signature tone of these restaurants: dark woods, swank lighting and a judicious use of red, as in red leather (and insanely comfortable) booths.

CCG has a u-shaped center bar, where you can gather the troupes before being seated, or even dine. (Indeed, it’s one of the best spots to dine solo in the city.) The staff is exceptionally well-trained, and know their product. (The system goes that you’ll be served water by one person, your order will be taken by another, and the grub gets served by food runners — but your main waitron will always keep checking back.)

Food: At the end of the day, the food at Cherry Creek Grill remains fairly phenomenal. The first time you taste the rotisserie chicken, you’ll understand why. Consistently juicy, with the right blend of spices and salt, and skin so perfect you almost don’t feel bad about devouring it all. Order it with the peanut coleslaw, one of the best in town, and the addictive mashed potatoes.

Even though it’s not quite diet food, you might also want to splurge on the cornbread, which comes out hot in a cast iron skillet, perfect for slathering on a ton of butter.

There are many other excellent rotisserie items as well, most notably the lamb. But you’ll want to come back for the salmon, the grilled artichoke and the banana cream pie.

Drinks: A decent wine list, with good variety of prices and selections. The bar staff know how to mix a fine martini, as well.

Vibe: The patio makes for excellent people-watching, whereas the inside makes for a place to snuggle in for a nice long chat with friends. The noise level is never too obnoxious, so it can work for first dates or last break-ups.

Insider Tip: If you can’t choose between the roast chicken and the beef ribs, have no fear. Even thought it’s not on the menu, the kitchen will gladly serve you a half order of each, which becomes the perfect solution!

There’s a restaurant in London, England named Rules, which has become the de facto nickname to the CCG. (It’s not known for its rules, but rather that was the first owner’s last name.) On the other hand, Rules has been around since 1798, making it the oldest restaurant in London. Hmmm, maybe Cherry Creek Grill is onto something.