Home > Restaurants > Restaurant Review > Inside: Barolo Grill

Inside: Barolo Grill

A new Colorado classic

By Thom Wise

Special to Metromix
May 12, 2008

Critic's Rating:

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Quick think: where were you in 1992? (Prom?  Middle school perhaps?)

If you were Blair Taylor, you were just opening your now-an-institution restaurant, Barolo. Taylor once had another beloved restaurant named Dudley’s, which was further west on Sixth Avenue and served nouvelle French cuisine. Somewhere along the line, he got bitten by the Italian bug and he’s been serving some of the best and most refined Italian grub ever since.

It’s still tough to get a reservation for Barolo, especially for those coveted 7 and 7:30 time slots, unless you think a week or two ahead. If your only choice ends up being later in the evening, there’s no worry because the bar remains one of the better people-watching perches ever – and you can nibble on some of the insanely-delicious “fritto misto” while you wait. (Note that the dish changes with the seasons, and it can be either a mélange of flash-fried seafood, or a lighter summer fare of fried asparagus, capers and baby artichokes. Whatever the case, order it.)

The main dining room has around 20 tables, and there are an ever-growing number of private dining rooms in the back and to the side. Without a doubt, the most requested table (possible in town) has to be the two-top in front of the fireplace. It’s surprisingly cozy and intimate, even though it’s surrounded by other interlopers.

There’s a slight misconception that Barolo is more of a “special event” or “high end” restaurant, suitable for marriage proposals and anniversaries. (White linens tend to do that.) But don’t let any of it dissuade you from checking out Barolo. If you’re only in the mood for an appetizer and a bowl of risotto, no problem.

In addition to the “fritto misto,” the other signature dish that’s hard to avoid is the braised duck – lacquered, intense and fortified with kalamata olives and garlic, it’s one of the few dishes that Chef Brian Laird can never take off the menu for fear of howls from its legions of fans.

It’s always important, however, to note what the specials “del giorno” are, for a very important reason. There are few owners and chefs who take more time to keep up with trends, and even fewer who actually GO to Italy once a year to do nothing more than eat and sniff around the Italian countryside. Each spring, Taylor closes the restaurant and takes many on the staff on a tasting tour through one of the many parts of Italy. (This past April, it was a trip to the Marche region.) What they come back with is a renewed love and enthusiasm for the food and wines of Italy, along with an in-depth knowledge that only being there can give you. So, if there’s a fish special, a weird-sounding vegetable or a special pasta being prepared that day, try it. Then end with a house-made gelato or sorbetti, and you’re in hog heaven.

Food: Regional Italian, with an emphasis on Northern and Central Italian (i.e. not much in the way of red sauces or spaghetti. If there is a meatball, it’s probably made with wild boar and truffles!)

Vibe: There’s a definite grown-up sense to Barolo, although it’s far, far from stuffy or snooty. You’ll likely find the wait staff having drinks on South Broadway at the end of the night, so don’t be afraid to have some fun with them. (Yet you might want to bring your parents along to pay the tab!)

Drinks: This isn’t a Red Bull and vodka spot. Start with a glass of Prosecco (Italian champagne), and then take your time choosing something from the extensive, albeit not inexpensive, wine list. Give your server your budget range, and then see what they come up with. It’s a pleasure to put your trust someone who knows what they’re doing.)

Insider Tip: In this situation, heed your server’s recommendations for what’s good and don’t be afraid to try something new. Or try splitting three or four courses between two of you. It’s more fun that way, and the food is rich so you’ll be plenty full.

Barolo Grill
3030 E. 6th Ave. (at Milwaukee)
Denver, CO  80206
303-393-1040

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