Home > Denver Restaurants > Restaurant Review > Inside: 1515 Restaurant

A Spanish proverb says the belly rules the mind, and I firmly believe in mind over matter. And it is a matter of fact the belly, and the mind, couldn’t be more pleased than after a meal at 1515 Restaurant.

It is delicate game to play; offering experimental cuisine, distinctive service and an extensive wine list while still vying to be approachable. Owner Gene Tang (who doubles as the sommelier) perhaps personifies this balancing act. Eloquent, surrounded by an air of sophistication as he speaks (with a healthy pride) about his remarkable cellar stacked with vintages of vino that rival some of the best in the city; he switches in stride to small talk about the idiosyncrasies of fly fishing; then back to discussing why port wine is perfect with the rhubarb dessert we are eating. You instantly want to be his friend, and whether he invites you to the next river trip or not, he instantly makes you feel like one when you walk into his restaurant. The restaurant reflects these contradictory high class and down-to-earth personas, and Tang flawlessly mends the whole experience together using both.

Food: Executive Chef Christopher Laramie, who introduced himself humbly as Chris, has only been with the restaurant a couple of months but has already started to make the menu his own. American contemporary is about as ambiguous as saying Lohan in the tabloids, you get the idea but it could mean just about anything. Rehab stories aside, this Lady Liberty du jour falls in the realm of innovatory fusion, weaving French and Asian elements in with some homegrown classics.

Usually stepping this far over the traditional line can get flavorfully gratuitous: doing so many things at once nothing gets done right. Not here. The first inkling something was different appeared with the cold Caesar salad soup. Soup, salad: usually paired, never combined. Until now. A pureed blend of vegetables that have the consistency of light baby food are poured over a bed of bacon foam, croutons, tomato conasses and Caesar dressing. First thought: “This guy is trying way too hard. Upon tasting: “This guy knows exactly what he is doing.” The cool creamy crunch was the perfect starter course and ideal nosh for the warmer day. Caesar salad was never this interesting or appetizing before today.

The next dish is what put the dedication of the kitchen in perspective. Usually morel mushrooms are not available until mid-summer, here we are in mid-May and we have a plate full scattered over green and white asparagus topped with black truffle shavings. It turns out Laramie brought several pounds back from a recent trip to Wisconsin where they come in a bit earlier and immediately incorporated them into the menu. The accompanying egg, baked whole in the shell, then deep-fried and rested on a bed of raw asparagus salad, is a style of cooking you will only find at 1515 as well. Laramie had to compose a 30+ page document just to get clearance from the board of health, and so far is the only one in the state to be granted permission. Add in the fact that a greenhouse was just built on the roof of the building to farm out the freshest ingredients possible, and there are few cordon bleus in town with this much commitment.

Aiding the culinary cause, the seared halibut is artistry on the plate, a party on the palate. Sitting on a mound of artichoke hearts, ginger glazed carrots and onions, all swimming in a pool of basil emulsion, each bite is brilliantly different than the last.

The three styles of duck is what sent the meal into orbit though. The confit has enough flavor to have us start looking at Donald in a different way, the spring roll finally makes Daffy tolerable, and the rendered breasts makes us even think twice about Howard. Add in the Soba noodles and plum sauce and this duck hunt is a whole new game.

Finishing up with a rhubarb and almond tart, the sourness refreshed the mouth from the long and rich journey, but was the perfect portion to finish things off, but not so dense like many other desserts sending us into bloated food coma. Be forewarned though, a big night can make the wallet take a hit, especially if the wine is being poured, but worth every penny (let's just hope you have a lot of pennies).

Vibe: Walking in it has the charm of a veteran LoDo building: exposed brick, steep staircases and high ceilings. The bar is on the first floor and turns towards a hefty party on the weekend with live music. Upstairs are the two dining rooms, one more secluded with a fireplace, another more open but still intimate. Romantic yet hip, even the décor seems to transcend dining stereotypes.

Verdict: The menu is fun, the people real, the chow exemplary; 1515 is a treat that requires no justification; a vacation from the ostentatious realm of fine dining sacrificing nothing in presentation of the epicurean masterpieces flying out the kitchen— it downplays the upscale and uplifts the entire experience.

1515 Restaurant
1515 Market St.
Denver, Co 80202
303-571-0011