Inside: Rialto Cafe

Jack of all trades, still master of all

By Justin Jimenez

Metromix

4.5

449022
The 30-somethings to the right were on their second glass of wine, chatting without the urgency to order that usually comes with a hungry belly. The elderly couple across from them had just waged war on the menu, the modest square table barely able to contain the array of different shaped plates. They shared a smile when the waiter asked if they had room for dessert. They didn’t, but they went for it anyway. The tables outside were swallowed with laughter and appetizers, like kids who had been let out for recess for the first time in months; this particularly brilliant spring day allowed for these grown up children to frolic on the playground of the 16th Street Mall. Upstairs the couple on the balcony chewed slowly and talked softly. It was hard to tell whether it was their first date or their first anniversary, but it was certain this meal was being taken very seriously. Down and to the right about 10 yards a pair of suits raised a short glass at the bar and made it disappear just as fast. It was followed by a face and a cackle that could only be paired with people who were ready to have some real fun– it was Friday after all.

This is what is so sensational about Rialto Café, it can be so many things to so many people while still managing to do everything right. It is a renaissance restaurant, remarkably able to simultaneously wear so many different culinary hats while tailoring the perfect personal experience to each diner. A jocular happy hour, the perfect patio, and a contemporary American menu that can mollify even the most finicky of eaters; the fare, but moreover the experience at Rialto is always made to order.

Food: Our group went for an amalgam of the aforementioned dining genres. We were ready to have some fun and forget the week before, but we wanted our stomachs to leave appeased and begging for a break, both from the chortling and the cookery. No surprise, we got everything we wanted.

Starting out with the bruschetta, the point was made early that although many of the items on the menu may have traditional names, it did not mean they were concocted from traditional methods. Most notably the eggplant puree slathered over the toasted baguette— it smoothed out the more expected ingredients of tomato, roast garlic and fresh basil while still making the early nosh memorable.

The calamari too didn’t try and mess with things that already worked. Yet it was accented by green olives and a tomato-basil relish igniting the squid in a vinegary punch highlighting the natural flavors already present while never upstaging them.

Not a salad eater? You don’t have to be to enjoy the Grilled Romaine. While “grilled” might be a bit of an embellishment (it can be problematic to throw lettuce on the griddle, I’ve tried), the wedges, onions and tomatoes are cooked at a high temp in the oven softening them up with a slight char before being chilled again, then topped with mozzarella and  a vinaigrette giving the green dish a boost of taste that any carnivore would love.

Digging into the main event, the winner hands down is the seared ahi tuna. Even while the menu remains seasonal, the tuna is one of the few items that have remained unchanged for years. It is obvious why. The sashimi grade fish is flash heated giving the edge just enough crispness and contrasting flavor while not touching the integrity of the fresh meat beneath. Add in the wasabi whipped potatoes and a creamy love affair ensues that makes it worth a side dish on its own.

Tuna seems to be a source of pride, as the seared tuna appetizer, sliced with a soy glaze, adds some Eastern flair and a grand starter plate; also the tuna salad melt on the lunch menu can brighten up any afternoon. Try it with the grilled asparagus to really put the meal together.

The seafood overall is a large draw, both the salmon and the sea bass getting plenty of attention. However, any of the steaks will never disappoint, but if I had to choose I would go for the New York, even over the filet, perhaps only for the divine cracked mustard butter sauce melting over the top as it arrives still sizzling on the plate.

A great veggie option is the linguini primavera, and rest assured the lack of protein does not equate to a lack of flavor. It would be advised to have a full glass of water before spinning your fork in this pasta– it comes with a serious kick.

Drinks:
It’s hard to rationalize a dinner at Rialto without indulging in a bottle of wine. The selection is deep and varied, but the cocktails are a subtle substitute that won’t damage the debit card quite as badly.

Even with the great list of signature libations, how a bartender makes a mojito says tons about the strive for quality. The new age bloody Mary, each bar has its own spin, but the attention to detail is what sets it apart. In an era of insta-mixers, how the Cuba borne bliss is concocted means everything, a passion for perfection and freshness is a must. When my mojito arrived the mint was muddled but not mauled, a sign of experience and finesse from the barkeep. The lime exuded the perfect aroma coming off the glass but didn’t dominate the nip of the leaves: it was perfect. Even with the volume the bar turns nothing is sacrificed in terms of craftsmanship. So it was no surprise when the signature Rialto Pink Diamond Martini came out it was a marvel of mixology as well– a faultless choice to order for a lady in the party

Bottom line:
Worth every headache it is to try to find parking along the 16th Street Mall. It is in the perfect location on the outdoor promenade as well, so a post or pre-dinner shopping/movie endeavor makes plenty of sense. Ideal for a date, a no brainer for happy hour, and a perfect schmoozer for a business bite; Rialto delivers everything you are looking for, even if you are unsure of what you are looking for.